Exploring Normandy: Day Trips from Paris and Renting E-Bikes to Explore

We woke early this morning to catch the 6:12 AM train to Bayeux. We left from Gare Saint-Lazare station. Paris is a huge city with several main stations, or gares. It was hard for me to wrap my mind around the vastness of Paris until I got there. It all makes sense once you are in Paris and catch an Uber to your station. Certain stations handle specific locations and destinations. I use Rome2Rio to search all trains, and then select the time and cost that is best for us. The two train lines we used were SNCF and Omio. You can purchase train tickets directly from these sites; however, Rome2Rio allows you to search for optimal pricing and times. I also downloaded their apps to have the ticket as a QR code on my phone. I also printed the ticket and carried it as a backup. Believe it or not, one day we needed this. You never know about phones and connections.

Tips

🚆I love to plan the day and buy tickets ahead of time. This helps select a seat if you have that option and a guaranteed space. It also helps organize your time and ensure you can fit all the activities, along with the train ride.

🚆Most folks head for the center of the train. Unless you have a car selected on your ticket due to seating choice, you can go to the front or back of the train to find a seat. We had to stand for 30 minutes on one overbooked train.

🚆Study your ticket and look for the train, car, coach, and seat number if you selected one. When you get to the station, look for the board and then find your train’s number, giving you the platform number where your train will be located. Sometimes, boards are separated into specific trains. For example, SNCF had its own board.

🚆PARIS HAS TRAFFIC! Plan your early morning Uber accordingly. If the train station is 20 minutes away by car, make sure you order an Uber 15 – 20 minutes ahead of time to allow for traffic. You also want to get to the station early so you can study the station and locate how they are set up, and when the time comes, you have your platform number and know where to go. One station had international trains in one area, separate from local trains. That’s a story for our Belgium day, but I forgot I was in France, and looked confused at the nice man who helped us and asked, Why do I need international? Ask for help. Don’t overestimate your ability to get a snack, shop, and return in time. One station divided its platforms into areas. This is yet another confusing way of setting up your station, but we asked for help, and humorously, the security guard said, “Look up!” Yes, like a glowing football scoreboard, there were the words “Area 1” with a huge clock.

🚆Every time you hop in that Uber, repeat your location. You may just put the wrong address in your phone because of how they share locations on maps. This saved us from going to the wrong station on a trip to Giverny.

Here’s a more detailed look at some of the main stations:

  • Gare du Nord: The busiest railway station in Europe and the hub for Eurostar trains to and from London. 
  • Gare de l’Est: One of Paris’s largest and oldest stations, focusing on trains heading east.
  • Gare de Lyon: A major station for trains heading south with connections to Lyon, Marseille, and beyond. 
  • Gare Montparnasse: Located in southwest Paris, serving destinations west of the city.
  • Gare Saint-Lazare: The oldest station in Paris, serving western and northwestern France.
  • Gare d’Austerlitz: Located on the Left Bank, near the Seine, serving destinations in southeast France and beyond.

Enough about trains.

Take the time to research all the locations in Normandy. Depending on your interest, you will select a town to go to that is nearest to your location of interest. Trains do not go directly to the beaches, so you must choose between the bus, Uber, e-bike, or a tour guide once you find the train station closest to your destination from Paris.

Bayeux: Known for its historical significance, Bayeux is a charming town with a well-preserved medieval center. It’s particularly noted for its Bayeux Tapestry, a medieval embroidered cloth depicting the story of William the Conqueror’s conquest of England. It’s also a convenient base for exploring the D-Day sites. 

Arromanches: Located directly on Gold Beach, Arromanches offers a unique perspective on the D-Day landing. Its artificial harbor, a major feat of engineering during the war, remains a testament to the logistical challenges of D-Day. It’s a great option for those interested in exploring the British sector of the landings. 

Caen: A major city in Normandy, Caen provides access to numerous museums and historical sites, including the Caen Memorial, a comprehensive museum dedicated to the history of peace and war. While not directly on the beaches, it’s a significant location for understanding the broader context of the D-Day landings. 

Rick Steves’ video on Normandy.

We traveled to Bayeux and walked to Loc Velo Bike Rental. We scheduled our e-bike rental ahead of time for one day from 9 to 6:00. They offered to bring the bikes to the train station for an extra fee, but we decided to walk to the rental shop. When we mentioned we found out about them through Rick Steves, they laughed and told the story of Rick coming to Bayeux and how it changed the number of people renting. It was a great promotion.

My good friend asked if I had ridden an e-bike. I had not. On the way to Dulles, we watched a great YouTube video on the basics of the e-bike. I’m so glad I did! Pay particular attention to not using the front brakes only, and what might happen! The folks at the rental provided helmets, chargers, and a fantastic app for our phones to provide audio and visual directions. I was worried about it being a long distance for the first time, but he over reassured me, stating, “My children and I go all the time!” Well, okay, let’s do this.

I highly recommend the bike trails in Normandy. They weave and wind with pavements and great signs, and the seaside scenery is breathtaking, beyond your imagination. I close my eyes and imagine myself there, soaking in the beauty. Our initial beginnings started off easy, and then the hills came. Little by little, hour by hour, we wondered, “Did we make the right decision?” but then we would find a treasure to behold, hop off our bikes, marvel, and get right back on. Chateaus, church bells ringing, farm animals smiling (well, they seemed to smile to me), farmers, families, and the sun beating down and the wind on our faces escorted us into a beautiful rhythm of discovery.

Some of my favorite pictures from the ride

In this video, you can hear the app giving us directions! It was such a help!

Every hill we flew down, it registered in my mind, I’ll have to climb this one on the way back. Because we stopped to experience the countryside, we took longer than expected. We visited Omaha Beach and the American Cemetery. We noticed that folks on bikes had to circle around to the main entrance and park their bikes in a designated area. Bikes are not allowed on the grounds. Also, the memorial on the beach is just before the American Cemetery, and it has a separate parking lot. You used to get to the beach from the museum, but now they have it separate and across the street.

I was glad I could FaceTime my mom and share the experience with her. Her brother, John Thomas, died on D-Day.

Some of my favorite pictures from the museum

This picture needs no words.

The names are honored.

After visiting the museum and the beach memorial, we returned to the rental place. Since we had changed our route, we needed to learn how to use the app. At one point, I wondered if we should have paid the fee for them to pick us up. However, with Parish’s encouragement, we decided to venture back the approximately 13 miles. As we rode, we encountered some significant hills. On a few of them, we had to dismount and push our bikes up, as the e-bikes didn’t have a throttle to assist us. They are quite heavy, so we took our time. At one point, I came across a gate on the bike trail. I attempted to ride through it, but I ended up falling to my side and landing hard on my left knee. While I was lying there, a friendly chicken approached to check if I was okay. In the background, a concerned farmer shook his head knowingly. I realized I should have heeded the signs—when you come to a gate, it’s best to slow down and get off your bike. The sign with a bike crossed out clearly indicated that you should walk your bike through the gate. I was confused because we were on an official bike trail, but my exhaustion, confusion, and the need to return by 6:00 created the perfect storm of trouble.

On our way home, we stopped at a farm with an ice cream shop. I bought some delicious ice cream and amazing soap. Watching the cows, or “vaches,” in the fields while relaxing and eating our ice cream was enjoyable.

Upon our return, he recommended places to eat. We had only a snack at breakfast, and besides the ice cream shop, only a few restaurants were open for business. We learned that the restaurant was another 30-minute walk, and he offered a ride for $10.00 (cheaper than Uber). We went to the restaurant called Le Garde Manger, and after approximately 27 miles, give or take, that was the best meal ever! Again, just watching people talk and engage in connection was so beautiful. A mom with her daughter is eating ice cream- an afternoon treat. A couple who were leaning into each other to whisper and share secrets and longings. As we sat outside, we could smell the flowers in bloom, and directly behind the restaurant was a magnificent hotel made of stone. He recommended a restaurant called La Rapière that took reservations but was closed. Rick Steves also recommends this place! In the middle picture below, you will see the couple behind Parish. They were so precious. The yellow flowers, I believe, are Jasmine, and they smelled so sweet!

You can’t do it all. It was helpful to find out that the Tapestry Museum was closed for renovations, as we spent all our time exploring the countryside and visiting Omaha Beach. Although some recommended spending the night in Bayeux to allow for more activities, we decided to keep it simple by doing day trips. This choice helped us avoid the extra expense of a hotel and the hassle of managing luggage. I could see the benefits of staying overnight, but we were happy to head to the train station after our meal.

Later that night, we melted into the sofa with open windows and enjoyed reminiscing about our exertion. Sleep came easily that night, which was good because tomorrow is Belgium!

On Easter Sunday, there was a line in one of our worship songs,

You bore my weakness
You took my shame
Buried my burdens in fields of grace
You called me out, lifted me up
How great is Your love

I remembered the yellow flowers in the fields and how overjoyed I was to be among them–it felt like grace-God’s grace. The expanse of golden fields, vibrant yellow flowers danced gently in the breeze, enveloping me in their radiant warmth. The moment felt like an embrace from God, a tangible expression of God’s grace. I marveled at the beauty surrounding me, a serene reminder of nature’s glory. Thank you, God, for this breathtaking experience and for the fields that bloom with your grace.

This video combines all our pictures and videos of our time in Normandy. There is no music, so you can watch peacefully.

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